Back in Johannesburg After Two Years: First Impressions

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New Portuguese restaurant in Ferndale. ?

Landing at Lanseria Airport was a delight. From the air yesterday, Johannesburg looked lush and green after weeks of heavy rain—some of it reaching near-storm proportions. The Citizen even ran a striking photo on page 5: Balancing Act, showing Carlswald resident Digby Hoets on a slackline above floodwater coursing through his property. The photograph, by Sean Christie, captured just how dramatic the rains have been.

I was lucky with my timing. Saturday, I was told, was the first non-rainy day in a while—warm and lovely, with an evening that turned cool in that refreshing Highveld way. That evening, we went out to a new Portuguese restaurant in Ferndale called Cataplana. The food was delicious, made in that unmistakable Johannesburg Portuguese style—often by owners with roots in Madeira—simple, traditional, and deeply satisfying.

Today, Sunday, brought something equally special: reconnecting with people I hadn’t seen for two years at the Life Drawing Randburg session. A fantastic model, dynamic poses, and the genuine excitement of seeing familiar faces after such a long gap. A memorable experience all round.

Of course, it’s pothole season in Johannesburg. Here in Randburg, the recent rains explain a lot of the damage. Residents told me about one giant pothole that had been open for nearly two years, but community pressure finally paid off—it’s now being fixed, and spirits are noticeably higher. There’s something encouraging about that: people coming together and standing up for their neighbourhoods.

Many coastal residents would think you’re mad to come up to Johannesburg over the festive season. But this is actually a special time of year here. The weather is excellent, traffic is lighter, and it’s a chance to revisit favourite haunts and re-experience the friendliness Joburg is known for.

On the plane yesterday, I spoke to a man travelling back from Cape Town with his son. He was full of praise for Cape Town’s cleanliness and organisation—but he was clear: Johannesburg is home. Despite its problems, he loves living here. That sentiment feels increasingly common. There’s a renewed interest in improving life in the city, and fresh green shoots—literal and metaphorical—are appearing everywhere. Maybe not a return to former glory, but a determined effort to get Johannesburg working again.

While some encourage Joburgers to escape to the coast for the festive season, many locals genuinely enjoy staying put. It’s quieter, less frantic, and allows time to reconnect with family and friends. Coastal trips come with higher costs—accommodation, restaurants, liquor, flights, fuel—and plenty of chaos. That’s why staycations aren’t new here. For years, many Johannesburgers have preferred to stay home in December and head to Durban, the KZN coast, or the Western Cape later in February or March, when things have settled down.

Two years away gives you just enough distance to see a place clearly. Johannesburg, soaked by rain and riddled with potholes, is also visibly alive—green, sociable, and quietly determined. There’s work to be done, no doubt, but there’s also warmth, resilience, and a sense that people are once again taking responsibility for the city they call home. For now, it feels good to be back.

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