I came across a copy of the UIA International Architect magazine from the early 1980s that featured an extensive spread on the architecture of Southern Africa. It was a remarkable time capsule. The issue was structured to include the Cape Province, the Transvaal, Natal and the homelands, alongside neighbouring nations like Zimbabwe, Zambia and Swaziland.

It’s a pity the editors left out South West Africa (Namibia only gained independence later, in 1990) because I have wandered the streets of Windhoek and Swakopmund myself and marvelled at some of the architecture there.

The featured projects got me thinking about some of the remarkable buildings I’ve encountered across South Africa—some I’ve seen with my own eyes, others I’ve admired only through books and magazines. I never hankered to be an architect myself, but I have always possessed a deep admiration for great design. I’ve long admired the beautiful Art Deco homes that are so prevalent in Cape Town and Johannesburg, and when visiting townships like Soweto, I’ve been struck by the basic but enduring urban design of the 1950s government housing in Orlando East and Orlando West. Remarkably, those houses are still lived in today.

Looking back from the vantage point of the mid-1980s, the following buildings are historical masterworks—stretching from early 20th-century monuments to the cutting-edge regional and industrial designs of the early 1980s.

The Union Buildings – Pretoria (1913)

If I had to choose one building that fills me with awe, it would be the Union Buildings. If you look at their history and study the original architectural drawings, the way Sir Herbert Baker engineered this monumental sandstone complex on the rising slopes of Meintjieskop is nothing short of astonishing. The sweeping semi-circular amphitheatre links two identical wings, balancing civic grandeur with the natural landscape. It remains one of the crowning achievements of early 20th-century architecture in South Africa.

St. Paul’s Anglican Church – White City, Soweto (1984)

At the opposite end of the architectural spectrum is this remarkable parish church in Soweto, designed by Jo Noero and completed in 1984. It has often been described as an example of “resistance architecture”. Because traditional building materials were heavily restricted in the townships, Noero used simple industrial components—exposed timber, concrete blocks and corrugated iron—to create a sanctuary with a soaring curved roof that fills the interior with natural light. It proved that true architectural dignity doesn’t require an unlimited budget.

Bophuthatswana Government Complex – Mmabatho (1978–1983)

This is a project I know well from travelling to Mmabatho in the 2000s to train local government personnel. Back when I worked as a journalist we used to say “Bop-hut-hat-swana” aloud before typing it, simply to make sure we spelt it correctly: Bophuthatswana. The complex is now situated in the North West Province.

Designed by the partnership of Bannie Britz and Michael Scholes, this sprawling administrative centre was widely praised for its approach to “critical regionalism”. Rather than imposing an alien glass tower on the dry landscape, Britz and Scholes created a low-rise urban village using deep-red face brick and shaded concrete colonnades. It was designed around open plazas inspired by the traditional African kgotla (gathering place), keeping people rather than buildings at the centre of the design.

ESCOM House – Johannesburg (1937)

Johannesburg has always been a city of pioneering high-rises, and ESCOM House, designed by P.S. Jeffree and opened in 1937, represented the pinnacle of its pre-war modern movement. I’ve used the original spelling, ESCOM, because the utility only later became known as Eskom. Standing 21 storeys tall, it was one of the country’s finest Art Deco and Stripped Classical skyscrapers. Jeffree designed the tower with a distinctive stepped-back silhouette to ensure every office received direct sunlight while avoiding excessive shadow on the streets below.

The Carlton Centre – Johannesburg (1973)

As I was writing this article, I found myself thinking about the Carlton Centre. Only this morning I remembered going there with my late friend Shaun Hollick, a fellow journalist at the Rand Daily Mail. After work we would sometimes meet there before heading home. At the time it simply felt like part of everyday Johannesburg. Looking back, I realise we were spending time inside one of Africa’s great engineering achievements.

Completed in 1973 and rising 223 metres above the city, the Carlton Centre remains the tallest building in Africa. Designed by the American architectural firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill in association with local architects, it symbolised Johannesburg’s confidence during the early 1970s. Even today, its clean International Style design and commanding presence on the skyline make it one of South Africa’s most recognisable landmarks.

Ponte City – Hillbrow, Johannesburg (1975)

Another Johannesburg building of immense significance is Manfred Hermer’s Ponte City. Completed in 1975, this 54-storey cylindrical tower of raw Brutalist concrete is an unmistakable landmark. Its defining feature is the spectacular hollow core—an open internal shaft that drops all the way to ground level, allowing daylight to reach the inner apartments. It remains one of the boldest expressions of high-rise residential architecture anywhere in the world.

NG Kerk Kroonstad-Noord – Free State (1937)

When it comes to ecclesiastical design, the Dutch Reformed Church north of Kroonstad is one of the finest examples of church architecture in the country. Designed by the master architect Gerard Moerdyk, this hand-carved sandstone masterpiece deliberately rejected the traditional European cross-shaped layout. Instead, Moerdyk created a striking octagonal auditorium beneath a massive central dome. The interior is a triumph of acoustics, geometry and natural light.

The Houses of Parliament – Kimberley (1883)

A fascinating piece of regional history took place in 1883 when the Cape Colony government temporarily moved a parliamentary session from Cape Town to Kimberley. The historic “Houses of Parliament” for that occasion were established inside the grand timber-and-iron halls of the Kimberley International Exhibition building (later known as Good Templars Hall) and adjoining school buildings. It remains a remarkable moment when exhibition architecture briefly became the seat of colonial government before Union in 1910.

When we look back at the beautiful mud-and-thatch dwellings of the Southern Sotho built centuries ago, we realise that thoughtful architecture has been present on this soil for generations.

Looking back today, these buildings represent only a small sample of South Africa’s architectural heritage. From monumental government buildings and pioneering skyscrapers to innovative churches and civic centres, they tell the story of a country that often produced architecture every bit as imaginative as that found elsewhere in the world.

Every time I stumble across an old book or magazine like that UIA International Architect edition, I’m reminded that some of our greatest treasures aren’t only found in museums. They’re standing quietly in our cities and towns, waiting for someone to stop, look up and appreciate them.

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