I visited the Thrupps supermarket in Illovo, Johannesburg, the other day, and it was a genuine pleasure. There is something quietly remarkable about standing in a grocery store that has not only survived, but continues to trade confidently more than a century after its founding.
Thrupps is widely regarded as the oldest grocery store in Johannesburg, and arguably the most historic name in upmarket food retailing in the city. Founded in the late 19th century (1892) during Johannesburg’s formative gold-rush years, the business has endured extraordinary economic, social and retail change. However one dates its precise beginnings, the store has now been trading for well over 130 years — an achievement few retailers anywhere can claim.
Over time, Thrupps has moved with the city. From its early days in central Johannesburg, it later relocated to Rosebank, before finally settling in Illovo in the early 1990s, where it still trades today. While the address has changed, the character of the store has remained recognisably Thrupps.
A Classic Store With Modern Appeal
The Illovo store is a blend of everyday grocery shopping and specialist indulgence. Alongside standard pantry items, it boasts an excellent deli, bakery, and full meat and fish counters, including premium offerings such as imported salmon. The emphasis on fresh, prepared and specialty foods is clearly where Thrupps continues to excel.
Imported groceries remain one of the store’s key strengths. On this visit, I was delighted to find Frank’s American mustard, a personal favourite that pairs perfectly with hot dogs, ham and other meats. I also picked up a glass jar of Thrupps cranberry sauce, which is outstanding with gammon — far superior, in my view, to the canned cranberry sauce my family used in the 1970s, and which my father nevertheless loved on both gammon and turkey.
Another product that caught my eye, given my own industry background in peanut butter, was the smooth variety of Reese’s American peanut butter — not widely available elsewhere in South Africa.
One area where I was slightly disappointed was the spreads aisle. An extensive range of British jams and preserves, which I had expected, was entirely absent. In fact, jams and preserves no longer appear to be a major focus for the store, with the selection reduced to just a few local upmarket brands.
More Than a Grocery Store
On entering Thrupps, you are greeted not by fresh produce, but by a curated selection of luxury gifts — clothing, housewares, fragrances, and hand and body soaps. This immediately signals that Thrupps sees itself as more than just a supermarket.
There is also a café inside the store, offering breakfast, lunch and good coffee, reinforcing its role as a neighbourhood destination rather than merely a place to buy groceries.
Competing in a Crowded Premium Market
The luxury grocery space in South Africa has become increasingly competitive. Stores such as SPAR’s flagship premium formats, high-end Checkers locations, and standout outlets like the SPAR in Broadacres now offer imported goods and excellent in-store prepared foods. In KwaZulu-Natal, SPAR Zimbali Oasis has also developed a strong reputation, although I can’t comment from first-hand experience.
In this environment, it is inevitably difficult for any long-established retailer to maintain an uncontested leadership position at the very top of the premium market. Change is relentless, and retail formats evolve.
Yet Thrupps remains special — not because it is the newest or the flashiest, but because it is the oldest. Its longevity alone gives it a unique status in South African grocery retailing. While Woolworths, founded in Cape Town in 1931, is often cited as the country’s oldest national upmarket chain, Thrupps predates it by decades and holds a singular place in Johannesburg’s commercial history.
A Living Piece of Retail History
Thrupps Illovo is not a museum. It is a working, evolving grocery store that still attracts customers who value quality, heritage and a slightly old-world sense of service. In an era where retail is increasingly homogenised, that counts for a great deal.
More than 130 years on, Thrupps is still trading — and that, in itself, is something worth celebrating.
